December 2, 2022


Cooking Is My World

The Saxelby Cheesecake

Cheesecake Anne Saxelby Dessert
Photography by David Malosh Foodstuff Styling by Pearl Jones Prop Styling by Sophie Strangio

I 1st satisfied Anne Saxelby in 2008 when I was 23 and working component-time marketing cheese at Brooklyn’s Greene Grape Provisions. I was finding up shifts on my days off from cooking at The Very good Fork, where I had just gotten an internship that immediately grew to become a occupation. I necessary to shell out my hire, but additionally, I necessary to feed my insatiable appetite for all things culinary. Cheese was normally anything I adored, so the Greene Grape gig was a enjoyment. My coworkers and I consistently geeked out about new arrivals and Anne’s name arrived up day-to-day. Her youthful cheese stall in Essex Marketplace could have been compact, but—just like Anne—it was mighty, and even then I could convey to she was unstoppable. 

Just about anyone in the cheese world appeared to know Anne. She was disrupting the American dairy field in the most effective way, by showcasing domestic cheeses that could hold their own among the European stalwarts. Anne was larger than life, warm, charismatic, and of system, so psyched to speak about cheese. She gave me my very first flavor of Harbison. She introduced me to Jasper Hill, and her beloved Cato Corner Farm. She taught me all about clothbound cheddars, washed rinds, and triple lotions. She confirmed me how to make mozzarella with cultured curds from Pennsylvania, and then, even much better, how to convert that mozzarella into stracciatella the future working day. If you liked cheese even an iota as a lot as Anne did, you were an instant pal. She welcomed me on several occasions—beaming with pride—into her minimal cheese cave in Red Hook, feeding me slivers of no matter what wheels her staff was portioning for wholesale that working day.

But Anne wasn&#8217t just a professional cheesemonger and affineur. She led a cheese revolution. Her enthusiasm gave a system and a spotlight to dairy farmers executing unbelievable do the job. She educated her consumers and a new era of cheese makers and mongers and, progressively, she improved the way the earth regarded American farmstead cheeses. She mentored and beloved so a lot of, and championed the tiny men out there, heading out of her way for every person in her orbit. 

When Anne handed absent final drop, she left at the rear of a legacy of schooling and sustainable agriculture. No just one had integrity rather like Anne, and I just can’t think of a extra fitting way to honor her lifetime and get the job done than to proceed celebrating her mission and passions.

I’ve place iterations of my chèvre cheesecake on menus because 2012, and it&#8217s come to be 1 of my signature desserts. I was honored that Anne came to flavor this dish around the several years in a variety of establishments—most lately at Gage & Tollner, in which the tangy goat cheese serves as a seasonal canvas and a creamy endnote to dinner. This cake pairs with nearly anything that is lucious and in period: Jammy late-time plums for early autumn roasted pears and maple later in the season candied citrus in the doldrums of winter and macerated berries, cherries, and peaches as spring turns to summer season. I hope you will make this splendor at residence, with a great-quality goat cheese that Anne would approve of. Anne, this cheesecake is forever for you.

Yield: makes A single 9-in. cheesecake
Time: 8 hrs


For the filling:

  • 20 oz. clean goat cheese, softened at space temperature
  • 1¼ cup sugar
  • 1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • 1 vanilla bean, break up lengthwise, seeds scraped and pod reserved, or 2 tsp. vanilla extract
  • 1 tsp. kosher salt
  • 1 cup major cream
  • 4 big eggs

For the crust:

  • Nonstick baking spray
  • ¾ cup all-function flour
  • ¼ cup full wheat flour
  • ⅓ cup mild brown sugar
  • ½ cup coarsely floor hazelnuts
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt
  • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

For the roasted plum compote:

  • 1 heaping pint ripe plums (about 1 lb. select a mixture of types and shades)
  • 1 Tbsp. further-virgin olive oil
  • ½ cup granulated sugar
  • 2 Tbsp. clean lemon juice
  • 4 thyme sprigs
  • ¼ tsp. kosher salt


  1. To a food stuff processor, add the chèvre, sugar, lemon zest, vanilla bean seeds, and salt, and pulse a handful of instances to break up any lumps. Drizzle in the significant product, pulsing and from time to time using a silicone spatula to scrape down the sides and base of the bowl as desired, till no lumps continue being (do not overmix). 1 at a time, add the eggs by the processor’s feed tube, pulsing till each individual egg is absolutely integrated prior to introducing the future.
  2. Area a high-quality mesh sieve around a massive, resealable container, then scrape the custard into it. Utilizing a silicone spatula, press the custard through the strainer, discarding any solids that keep on being.  Go over tightly and refrigerate for at the very least 1 hour or up to 48 hrs.
  3. Meanwhile, make the crust: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Lightly spray a 9-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray, line the base with a circle of parchment paper, and set apart.
  4. In a substantial bowl, stir collectively the all-function flour, complete wheat flour, brown sugar, hazelnuts, and salt. Pour in the melted butter, then use a silicone spatula to stir right up until the mixture resembles moist sand. Carefully press the crust into the prepared pan in an even layer, allowing for it to occur up the sides for a slender crust. Refrigerate right up until business, at least 20 minutes or up to 12 hrs.
  5. Bake the crust till it is golden brown, fragrant, and a little bit crisp to the contact, 20–25 minutes. Set apart to great completely to home temperature prior to filling.
  6. When you are prepared to bake the cheesecake, preheat the oven to 300°F. Wrap the base of the springform pan tightly with aluminum foil and location it in a baking dish that is at minimum 2 inches deep. Pour the filling into the crust, then position the baking dish in the oven. Pour very hot water into the baking dish to a depth of 1 inch, then bake until eventually the cheesecake is set close to the edges but continue to a little jiggly in the heart, about 1 hour.
  7. Take away the baking dish from the oven and neat the cheesecake, nevertheless in its h2o bathtub, fully to room temperature. Take away the cooled cheesecake from the h2o tub, protect with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 6 and up to 12 several hours.
  8. Make the plum compote: Preheat the oven to 375°F. Pit the plums and minimize into halves or quarters, based on their size. In a 9- by 13-inch baking dish, toss the plums with the olive oil, then stir in the sugar, lemon juice, thyme, salt, and the reserved vanilla bean pod. Transfer to the oven and roast, stirring at the time halfway by means of cooking, right until the plums are jammy, vibrant, and effervescent, 20–25 minutes. Take away from the oven and set aside to interesting to place temperature. Get rid of and discard the thyme stems and vanilla pod, then scrape the cooled compote into an airtight container and refrigerate.
  9. To unmold the cheesecake, run a skinny knife around the edge, then cautiously take out the outer ring of the springform pan. Slide the cake on to a serving platter and top rated with the plum compote. Minimize into wedges and provide chilled.

The publish The Saxelby Cheesecake appeared initially on Saveur.